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The Insanity of Learning to Surf at my Age – On the North Shore of Oahu

The Insanity of Learning to Surf at my Age – On the North Shore of Oahu

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I can remember exactly the first time I felt I had to surf….against all expectations, as I am uncomfortable in the ocean when my feet don’t touch a sandy bottom. Surf movies were projected onto the walls of the hip restaurant where we celebrated my daughter’s birthday.  Watching surf movies is like seeing poetry come […]

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